2009-07-25. I believe that one or several holds were broken down. Now, the crux passage looks like 2.5m of blank wall without any holds. Two new bolts have been placed to the right of this
old crux. The new crux is a boulder with a long dyno-move. The grade for the entire route is 7c/7c+, but something like 6c+/V7 would be more informative.

/Peter Y.
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Tjena Peter!

Jag firade nedför klippan i dag och såg leden och bultningen. Den ser mkt fin ut. Är det du som har satt de nya bultarna? Har du testat att klättra leden? Jag blev sugen på att känna på den.

Förresten, vad är tanken med ankaret som sitter längre ned? Är det en "bail-out" om man inte orkar gå vidare? I så fall, vad är graden upp till detta ankare?

Andreas H

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Hej Andreas

I rebolted the old route up to where that intermediate anchor is located now. After that, it was no-go because a flake (or several) was missing. We tried many-many times.
The grade up to that point is 6c+, and it is rather balancy and technical slab climbing, not easy at all. Then, Johan L put up two new bolts to the right - the new passage that ends up with a dyno to
the ledge, a dyno from two micro-crimps. He did it after 10+ tries on lead on the second day, I only managed once on top-rope. We suggested 7c+, but this is rather 7a with two white-tape boulder moves.
After the ledge, the route is original and presents some 7a wall climbing and is very nice. The top-anchor is new, put up by me. The old one is also there, for those purists who might want to climb over the top-edge (not really suitable for top-roping though).

I have also something to discuss with you about the possibilities/plans in Lidingöväggen sector, I've seen that you bolted up a new start to the left of Radikalen. When are you coming to Örnberget next time?  

Peter